RTW Spring Coach 2023 – WWD

The coach brought the ride to the Park Avenue Armory on Monday afternoon.

The sandy, wood-plank setting and scenic opening – featuring a sailor, a pair of young lovers, a cowboy and a traveling musician, among other characters – were meant to convey a mix of “urban and beach” , as in Far Rockaway or Coney Island, said Stuart Vevers of his latest New York inspiration.

“It made me think of times when people would maybe leave a club and take the train to one of these beaches, quite spontaneously,” said the creator, who had a photo of Patti Smith and Robert Mapplethorpe on her mood. plank.

Over the past two seasons, Vevers has focused on highlighting Coach’s outerwear and leather goods, and highlighted the brand’s exploration of Americana, circularity and fluidity. genres, values ​​dear to the younger generations. To that end, the surprise ending was Lil Nas X walking down the catwalk, which served to announce the pop star as Coach’s new ambassador.

Although there were 46 looks, it wasn’t a huge collection. Instead, Vevers wanted to highlight all the techniques used to breathe new life into clothing, including burnishing, patchwork and recycled leather jackets, which will always come at a premium, of course.

What’s not for spring, apparently, are pants, as early models came out in a series of leather and tumbled denim work jackets and little else except oversized high-top sneakers. and swollen or jelly shoes, and a stringy shell. necklaces with a nod to the beach vibe. As seen on all the runways this week, we’re definitely in for another naked summer.

For when the air gets chilly by the ocean, perhaps, Vevers also showcased a selection of patched and repaired cool vintage fisherman’s sweaters, which could open up a new – and fun – opportunity for Coach to make a new comeback. old knitwear.

Rounding out the teenage fantasy are baggy leather skate shorts, leather jumpsuits, patchwork vests, overdyed varsity sweaters and, for thrift chic, retro 30s and 40s dresses.

“These on-track experiences have become more meaningful and scalable within the company,” Vevers said, noting that the brand has opened a new Coach Loved studio. “Luxury today doesn’t necessarily mean perfection…sometimes [the] wearing and using and loving people showed that things can make them more beautiful.

It’s a valid and forward-thinking point, but one that’s at odds with the overscale of Coach’s runway productions and celebrity-fueled commercial position. Do we really need a fake beach when the real ones are in such great danger?