It’s no surprise that Nili Lotan has a robust and healthy business. The Israeli-born designer has a good idea of what her client is looking for. She has a good sense of proportion and trends, yes, but she’s also an innate merchant. Collecting appointments with her consist of more than a walkthrough: models casually stroll through the room for buyers and editors, while Lotan carefully dissects each piece, all evenly spread out on wooden shelves. groups it brings together to better illustrate its vision. .
For spring, Lotan based his vision on wide and oversized silhouettes; the tops in particular, she said, because after years of design experience, she knows her wife won’t go often “to grow both up and down.” This showed best in its relaxed yet neatly cut paired with matching trousers and an oversized cotton shirt or over beige sequined skirts and Lotan’s signature form-fitting silk briefs. Designer of pants, Lotan leans more and more on dresses. New this season in this space came a range of backless dresses and briefs, mostly presented in prints, one being leopard and the other with chain links. These, along with Lotan’s very luxurious silk knitwear and beltless silk skirts, helped add a layer of specialty to its commercially grounded assortment. Ditto for the three pops of color she incorporated into the offering: an almost burnt orange, a rich purple and a military green lifted her range and allowed her seasonal novelty to shine between her baseline and her best-sellers. sellers. The piece that marked the collection the most was a khaki leather trench coat. Lightweight, oversized and deliciously luxurious.
Much has already been written this week about how often New York Fashion Week is commercial, and as true as that often is, there’s value in designers like Lotan who know exactly how to speak to their audience. “I have a direct connection to my client because I have retail stores,” she said, and this collection is a testament to that. After all, some fashion enthusiasts dream of romantic dresses in whimsical lookbooks or gothic fantasies on ominously lit catwalks, but others dream of the perfect jacket or gorgeous briefs.