Sleek, sexy clothes are all the rage at New York Fashion Week. At Michael Kors, they evoke the 1970s, when Lauren Hutton and Naomi Sims graced the covers of magazines and Halston (the dresses and the man himself) ruled the Studio 54 dance floor. are leaning towards the minimalism of the 90s. There is a connection between these eras, which covered the second and third waves of feminism, and now. Since the flashback of Roe v. Wade, the fight for women’s rights has become more urgent. We fight for control of our body. Fashion is a mirror of the times, so it only makes sense that the body is highlighted on the catwalks.
During a preview of the showroom, Kors spoke about the characteristics of good American design: movement and sensuality. “That’s what made me love the American style. Halston, Burrows and Rudi Gernreich, it was about liberating the body, in different ways. Kors was cooking up something similar here, combining the urban-chic fit it’s known for with the laid-back yet hedonistic spirit of resortwear. An elongated blazer topped with a headband and sarong, and singlets were paired with flowing pleated trousers. The buttonhole, once the traditional accompaniment to a suit, has been removed almost entirely from the equation, and the few times it has appeared, it has been undone to the navel. The neckline was the erogenous zone, naturally without a bra, although the legs played a lot with all the fringed sarongs.
Kors wasn’t just riffing on his 1970s icons, he was quoting himself too. The gold earrings were removed from the Spring 2002 collection he showed in the aftermath of 9/11. They also inspired the bold gold necklaces from which he hung liquid strips of jersey in poppy red and bright lime green. Other evening options include Kors’ tried-and-true sequined stretch jersey and a gorgeous silk kaftan in this bright red. Also back: Kors favorites like Carmen Kass and Natasha Poly. This time around, the body-con isn’t just for teens and 20-somethings.