Maryam Nassir Zadeh RTW Spring 2023 – WWD

Maryam Nassir Zadeh is in a constant state of wanderlust. His social media accounts became a constant source of evasion; a flashing carousel of photos of the Mediterranean villas, LA bungalows and Miami apartments she calls home on many vacations.

For spring, Zadeh turned those trips into a bohemian take on warm-weather dressing. She drew from her personal archive of vintage textiles from her many escapades, draping crocheted ruffles and embroidered cocktail napkins over new basics and reworked archive patterns.

The result was more conceptual than Zadeh’s past collections. Her early days of form-fitting gingham dresses, hand-illustrated prints and sherbet-colored shoes that inspired a certain era of New York fashion now seem far behind her.

But Zadeh seems to be taking it head on as part of the evolution of his brand. “The theme of the season is renewal and the blending of old and new. It’s about closing the loop and merging the past with the present. My intention was to tap into what feels important and dear to me after all these years and mix it with what is current,” she said.

Many of the drawings seemed drawn from the more relaxed corners of Zadeh’s holiday brain.

Several skirt looks emerged and turned the corner to reveal each model’s behind in a contrasting color thong – a procession of fashion aprons, if you will. The pattern for the apron, Zadeh said, “came from thinking about the tension between family life at home and traveling and being wild and free. It’s about duality. The backs of the aprons were open, revealing an unexpected and sexy pop with exposed underwear, linking clothing to the beach and holidays.

The collection’s colors – a palette best described as sand and seashells – brought this idea more clearly.