Maison Rabih Kayrouz Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection

As much as his style is based on the purity of the lines, the ingenious cut and the volumes as airy as they are exact, there is always an element of sensual fluidity in the design of Rabih Kayrouz. Garments are constructed with a sense of movement that leaves no room for stiffness, no matter how rigorously constructed.

“I think of the woman, I like to dress her for her real life,” Kayrouz explained during an appointment at the showroom where he presented both his ready-to-wear and couture collections. He does not work according to specific inspirations (“everything inspires me”, he says), he has no themes, and moodboards are absent from the equation. “For me, design is not a mood, but a thought, a consideration,” he said. Kayrouz also has a strong aversion to anything ornamental and decorative. “I don’t like big turn of phrase, I don’t like artifice, I like very essential things in everything I do,” he added. “And I don’t want to imagine a woman different from what she is; I do not want to disguise her, or coerce her. I do not live in a fantasyrunning after an abstract idea of ​​what a woman should be.

The two collections presented by Kayrouz spoke a common language, and it was interesting to see how he worked on the same shapes and volumes, giving ready-to-wear an inventive haute couture touch, while keeping couture anchored in a more IRL. Everyday pieces looked elevated, while tailoring gestures didn’t look grand, but rather polished yet cool. One of the best examples was a voluminous A-line gown offered in dramatic black taffeta for the couture line, while its ready-to-wear version was crafted from lightweight recycled polyester in a delicate eggshell hue. duck.

Sculptural shapes alternate with more fluid shapes in both lines. A couture black jacket/cape had an egg-shaped back and straight slit sleeves, and was paired with slightly flared pants for a chic costume proposition. In the ready-to-wear line, a sinuous draped number in emerald jersey, with a plunging neckline and balloon sleeves in crisp, papery recycled polyester, stood out.

For both proposals, a slightly sporty feeling has been reworked thanks to the elegant sobriety of Kayrouz, adding dynamism. But don’t expect radical introductions of trends into Kayrouz’s lexicon: “I’ve always been faithful to my style,” he mused. “For me, style is an evolution, not a rupture.”