LFW: EDWARD CRUTCHLEY Spring Summer 2023 Collection

©Edward Crutchley

Fashion designer EDWARD CRUTCHLEY presented spring summer 2023 The only constant in life is change Collection as part of the ongoing London Fashion Week. For the season, Crutchley collaborated with Aron Alexandros De Vallier Petridis. Both were inspired by Proteus, the ever-changing, shape-shifting Greek god of the sea, who serves as a metaphor for the fluid queer community.

SPRING SUMMER 2023 COLLECTIONS

©Edward Crutchley
©Edward Crutchley

This fragment, attributed to Heraclitus of Ephesus, who, in his susceptibility to melancholy, will bear the title of “the weeping philosophy”, will serve as a bonus for our brief but collective stay. In the uncharted waters of change, it is impossible for a human to enter the same waters twice, as Heraclitus enlightens us:

“Πάντα ῥεῖ” (Everything always flows).

The momentum begins to form:

Sea against land, flow against rigidity, myth against realism, amorphous relief against constraining framework, otherness against conformity.

How to reconcile these differences?

The ancient Greeks had a complex relationship with the ever-changing sea. While resource, source of power, the otherness of the sea, its changing unpredictability, its brute force and its indomitable will were feared.

At their core, many stories in Greek mythology deal with interpersonal conflict. The solution is often some form of metamorphosis. The liminal beings, endowed with the power of transition or change, act as bearers of resolution. Unlike humans, their very essence allows them to move through contrasting realms: the mortal and the divine. Earth and sea.

An example of this is Proteus (Πρωτεύς), a liminal being who not only inhabits but also embodies rivers and ocean water bodies. When revealed to the human eye, Proteus takes the form of the “old man of the sea”, when hidden he enjoys the epithet of (God of the) “elusive sea change”. And while he bears the gift of prophecy, in his reluctance to share it with humanity, Proteus’ form changes. Proteus will enlighten those who seek to know the one constant (which is change) only if they are able to catch it in the midst of metamorphosis.

His abilities live on in the English language. We always use the word “protean” to describe the ability to change intermittently and effortlessly. Kind of like fashion.

Perhaps the only way to coexist peacefully with change is to be protean ourselves.

Perhaps we will capture Proteus during our visit today.

– Aron Alexandros De Vallier Petridis

©Edward Crutchley
©Edward Crutchley
©Edward Crutchley
©Edward Crutchley
©Edward Crutchley

Styling: Julian Ganio
Casting: Sophie Lynas at LEDA Casting
Producer: Antoine Waller
Press Release: Dal Chodha
Shoes: Rockers
Jewelry and headdresses: Victoria Rickard and Gianluigi Zoccheddu
Headwear: Stephen Jones
Serpatine Rock Necklaces: David Crutchley
Direction of movement: Brieuc Breitenstein
Music: Mickey O’Brien
Historical and cultural consultant: Aron Alexandros de Vallier Petridis
Perfume creation: Edward Lorenz
Hairstyle: Richard Phillipart at Gary Represents sponsored by L’Oréal Professionnel
Makeup: Michelle Dacillo sponsored by Weleda
Nails: Marie Louise Coster at Nylon Artists using Louella Belle
Lighting design and videography: Hydra Design
Trail photographer: Chris Yates
Backstage Photography and Lookbook: Francisco Gomez de Villaboa
Graphic and textile design: James Bosely Studio
Embroidery: The London Embroidery Studio
Fabric production: TRUK 1609
Studio team: Karen Coughlan, Aron de Vallier, Ava Coffen, Aaron James Ford, Hilary Watts, Yong Hui Tan, Precious Ikekhua, Willow Prieto-Johnson, Lucas Chaillou, Oliver Julius Ross, Lucy Rogers, Mitja Olenik, with thanks to Niall Sloane.
Thanks to: L’Oréal Professionnel, Weleda, Louella Delle, Bower Roebuck, TRUK 1609