Zegna unveiled its Spring/Summer 2023 collection during Milan Fashion Week in June 2022 at Oasi Zegna. Creative director Alessandro Sartori’s freshly minted line includes an enviable selection of kimono jackets, overcoats, sheer coats, shirts and tops that double as outerwear. The collection exudes a feeling of lightness, warmth and comfort, amplified by its understated color palette. The iconic Triple Stitch Sneaker has been reinvented by Sartori in partnership with Daniel Bailey, innovative London-based shoe designer and founder of Conceptkicks. The collaboration between the two creative giants, based on a unique shoemaking process, has resulted in a creative experience where ultra-luxurious materials pair perfectly with modern amenities.
In a quick chat with Sartori, MW gets the insider track.
What was your vision behind the SS23 collection? Explain the process behind
The Zegna Summer 2023 fashion show was presented for the first time at Oasi Zegna. Oasi Zegna is the focus of our values, and therefore our constant source of inspiration. We thought it was the perfect setting to showcase collection titles, like ‘Born in Oasi Zegna’, to highlight our place of origin. Advancing on its own path is what is at the heart of Zegna. The collection contains many interesting items. From colors to prints, everything reflects a green mindset. This season is all about technical elements and functionality, combined with our renowned craftsmanship, encompassing the brand’s excellence in fabric and the mix of different materials. The collection was presented on the roof of the historic Lanificio Zegna and featured truly unique materials, reflecting the development of wool spinning, such as technical knits, technical silk, mesh, rubberized nylon and wool, terry cloth, rubberized and lacquered leather. Napa. A feeling of extreme lightness runs through the entire collection, which is felt in its effortless silhouettes.
In your opinion, how has luxury couture evolved over the years? And what does Zegna do to stand out?
The clothing preferences, needs and habits of the urban man have changed dramatically over the past couple of years. Wardrobes have transformed, with fashion reflecting the herculean changes in our lives brought on by the pandemic. Customers now prefer flowing silhouettes that are both multifunctional and comfortable. Therefore, clothes should transition seamlessly between indoors and outdoors to reflect the way we function. For me, it was a time to rethink what is possible, to reconsider what really matters, and to rebalance our style as we were called upon to respond to the changing times. A new aesthetic was needed: fluid, timeless, adaptable, where comfort goes perfectly with style. At Zegna, that’s what we call Luxury Leisurewear: an easy-to-wear clothing category that represents a paradigm shift in how we think about style. Zegna today has a new identity where practicality and pragmatism gradually combine with tradition and craftsmanship to meet the style needs of the modern man towards a Luxury Leisurewear approach and a new style language. .
In SS23 there was a strong fusion of workwear and sportswear. Is it inspired by the merging of the two during the pandemic?
Many items in the new collection are inspired by the pragmatisms drawn from workwear and activewear with the visual precision of the clothing uniform. The result is a move away from total formality. Effortless, unstructured shapes convey a feeling of lightness and freedom, blurring the line between formal wear and leisurewear. Through a constant exploration of new ways to dress and contemporary lifestyle, Zegna combines dynamic and flattering silhouettes with luxury craftsmanship and innovation to redefine the man’s wardrobe. modern.
In this collection, we see lots of salmon pinks, bright yellows, and regular earthy tones such as beige, black, and charcoal. What led to the transition from earthy colors to pastels?
The objective was to build a new harmonious language, and also to recall the beauties of nature surrounding Oasi Zegna. The same reasoning applies to the choice of colors, where lightness was the key word. A palette accented with notes of powdery white, ranunculus, dusty rose, honey, vicuña, mocha, hickory, charcoal, sulfur and black was developed to deliver this message.
What inspired you to bring loose silhouettes and lightness to the collection? What was the idea behind?
The idea was to use our craftsmanship as a progressive tool, respecting finesse, attention to detail and respect for materials while experimenting with light, airy and effortless styles and materials. The idea was to combine simplicity and innovation to create a new style of identity for men.
You redesigned the famous Triple Stitch Sneaker with Daniel Bailey. How did the collaboration come about?
We have known each other for a long time. We love and respect everyone’s ideas and share the same values. We are both fans of modern design and well-designed products. Thus, the collaboration is organic and natural. When we struck up the conversation to design luxury leisure footwear, Triple Stitch™ naturally came to mind. The Triple Stitch sneakers are a worldwide success for Zegna. And, from this collaboration, we expand the boundaries to make it a kind of creative platform. In collaboration with Mr. Bailey, we have added a unique touch to the Triple Stitch™ in that we have reinvented it in a new design while keeping its soul. We made it in new colors, materials and constructions. The collaboration, based on a unique shoemaking process, is an unprecedented experience in which luxury materials blend perfectly with current achievements.
Fashion collaborations are the next big thing and Zegna is not new to this. You had a collaboration with Fear of God and now this one with Daniel Bailey. How do you think collaborations benefit the brand and the industry as a whole?
Collaborations, in my view, are the result of creative minds working and thinking together, based on a common vision and authentic conversations, while sharing the same values. And, most importantly, there must be mutual respect and trust. Only under these premises can you explore new possibilities and ideas that can benefit both brands.
Where do you see the brand in five years? What is your vision?
As I always say, at Zegna the journey is more important than the destination. Every journey requires adaptability and today we had to focus on the true essence of the brand, rooted in Oasi Zegna, where our sustainable ethos has its origins. The recent Zegna rebranding has given us the opportunity to be sharper, bringing together all the collections under one brand, and at the same time to express our authentic values through a recognizable sign that comes from the brand’s history. Zegna has been a global leader in luxury menswear for more than 112 years, generation after generation, and continues the founder’s vision based on sustainable development linked to the ethical production of the finest and most exclusive fabrics in the world thanks to constant innovation and noble fibres. . Giving back is an integral part of the mission of the Ermenegildo Zegna Group.